During my return to the town of Kőszeg, Hungary in September – a place where I had spent a perfect, productive sabbatical— my friends at the Institute of Advanced Studies, Kőszeg (iASK) eagerly introduced me to Kathy Henderson, a women from London. She had just released her book, My Disappearing Uncle. Exactly my age, and with a similar musical background, we chatted freely on the bus ride to Vesprem where iASK’s conference would be held.
As recounted to me, her story and her relationship to this town unfolded quite unbelievably. Kathy descends distantly on her mother’s side from Austro-Hungarian Jewish nobility with the family name, Schey von Koromla. Kathy had been brought up by an extremely adventuresome mother, Inge Schey von Koromla, whose own mother, Anny, had tobogganed down Swiss slopes from the family chalet to give birth to her. (Inge herself had her daughters winter with her on a cold houseboat in the Seine and go to school to learn proper French.)
Here I highlight what resonated profoundly for me in Kathy’s extraordinary story. I had spent my time in 2018 at iASK, doing a conceptual plan for Kőszeg centered on the circular economy, with a team of fourteen interdisciplinary graduate students from CUNY and various Hungarian Universities. During our stay, we reveled in the gorgeous 16th century architecture of this well-preserved “royal town” of Kőszeg. From cobbled streets to handsomely restored buildings belonging to iASK, courtesy of funding from Victor Orban, one building stood apart. Set back and extremely derelict behind locked gates, was Koszeg’s synagogue that had once served a thriving Jewish popula?on. That population had been eradicated by the Hungarians under Nazi sway during WWII. No Jews remain today in Kőszeg, but a few in the nearby city of Szombatheley aKend a restored synagogue there.
Back then, in our explorations, we had met at the synagogue’s gate a woman who said she had purchased the two buildings flanking the courtyard, one, the former rabbi’s house. It turns out she was a self-appointed caretaker of the synagogue. She also collected relics of the Kőszeg Jews whenever she could find them. (While herself not Jewish, her grandfather had perished in the camps). Obviously, our questions turned on the fate of this building. There apparently had been some prior plans to turn it into a pub, but that and other enterprises had lapsed.
Now to Kathy’s story. She had been researching her matrilineal history and that work had taken her to different places (and palaces) linked to her ancestors. Returning from a visit to one of them, she looked at the map and decided to make a “ten minute” detour to Kőszeg, known in the guidebook as the “jewelbox of Hungary.” Struck by the town’s magnificence, she sat at a café on the main square and by coincidence struck up a conversation with someone who was studying at iASK. Hearing about Kathy’s research, that individual suggested she contact the town archivist, which she subsequently did. Stunningly, it turned out that the archivist had written up a whole history of the Schey family! Kathy spent time copying the earlier branches on her family tree. Right then, she decided to spend some more time exploring the town.
She had already noted the abandoned synagogue, and passing by once more, found the gate this time miraculously unlocked. Entering, she encountered the woman caretaker, who became excited when Kathy shared her drawing of her family tree. Each speaking very basic German, the woman led her to the synagogue. The interior was largely in ruins, but the circular space was illuminated by windows above and round windows on the sides. Motioning Kathy to look up, on the ceiling was still legibly inscribed, “Zur Ehre Gottes erbaut von Philip Schey, “built in God’s honor by Philip Schey”, Kathy’s newly found, great, great, grand uncle!
Despairing at the building’s conditon, especially amidst the splendor of the revitalized town, Kathy approached iASK’s Director, Ferenc Mislivetz. Learning Kathy’s story, Ferenc immediately took her to meet the town mayor, Bela Basthy, who also became excited about this coincidence. Collectively, they schemed about acquiring the property and financing a restoration. As it turned out, a later visit by Victor Orban to Kőszeg concluded with Ferenc showing him the synagogue. At that moment, it became apparent that the building would be conserved and then restored!
I relate this tale, told in lovely detail as a last chapter in Kathy’s book, as I had myself earlier developed a strong affec?on for this forlorn liKle building. I was thrilled at this recent return to Kőszeg, to be able to visit the handsomely restored synagogue, now open as a cultural center and concert venue. At right, Ferenc Mislivetz in the synagogue’s courtyard.
I highly recommend Kathy’s book. The cover blurb is by her cousin, Edmund de Waal, of the Ephrussi family and author of The Hare with Amber Eyes.